Visiting Texas Hill Country

Now readers, I know that I’m supposed to write about gardening. I’m supposed to give you ideas about how to grow a spectacular wildlife garden, how to attract the bugs and birds and beasties, how to balance utility and beauty. I’m probably supposed to talk about North Carolina gardening, since I think I’m BWG’s mid-Atlantic gardener du jour. I should lament the weather that has struck down my tomatoes and blighted my figs. I should talk…y’know…gardening.

Heck with it. You’re getting my vacation photos from Texas. We may talk about gardening at some point, but I promise nothing.

So I went to the Texas Hill Country a few weeks ago, an area famous among birders. There are birds there that live nowhere else in the US, including the endangered Black-Capped Vireo and Golden-Cheeked Warbler. They have three kinds of Kingfishers!

Ideally, mind you, you don’t go in August. We saw 77 different species of bird, which sounds like a lot, but two days in the Texas Hill Country when it is not a million degrees out can net you well over a hundred. High summer is the dead season, and pretty much everything was dormant.


It pretty much all looked like this. Dried yellow grasses, with frequent scissortail flycatchers.

Added to that, they’ve been suffering severe drought, depleting the insect supply. We visited the Frio Bat Cave to see the Mexican Free-tail Bat emergence, and there was some genuine fear that there would be hardly any bats out because of this.

(Incidentally, there were millions of them. Millions. Migrants from more northern caves had headed south and replenished the population. The rangers were very happy. And I’m going to stop there, because there is absolutely no way to describe a bat emergence like that in words that will do any justice to it at all. It was rather like a mammal version of the Grand Canyon—it’s so big that you can’t get your head around it and you can’t explain it and you just end up making vague hand gestures and going “BIGNESS.”)

The bats, however, were not the only big thing in Texas.



This is a female Dobsonfly. It was longer than my thumb. Yes, they bite. Brutally. (The males, interestingly enough, have inch-long tusks which can’t break the skin because they can’t get any leverage. The females, the guides say, with typical understatement “can draw blood.” Dude, that thing could take out a freakin‘ cow.

Now, you know me. I am a relentless friend of nature and bugs, well past the point of normalcy and social acceptability. Even I, however, draw the line at sharing a chair with a female Dobsonfly. As I saw no way I could destroy it…and feared to provoke it…I went inside for the evening.

(No, I don’t know how you attract them to your garden. I assume you hang carrion and chains from the trees and draw dark magical symbols on the ground. Dear god, those pincers!)

Despite the drought, some things did continue to grow. There were thick bands of green along the creeks, the trees filled with Golden-Fronted Woodpeckers and patrolled by Green Kingfishers. And you’d find living things in the oddest places…


No idea what they are. They were at the top of a brutal series of switchbacks on loose scree that eventually defeated us.

And in the middle of a sandy path leading down to a stream, we found a familiar sight:


Dung Beetle Power!

These were smaller than the dung beetles in my garden, but otherwise identical. That was a recurring theme, actually—many of the birds we saw are technically the same species as the ones in my garden, but just slightly different. Their Carolina Chickadees were larger and had a different accent, the wrens had completely the wrong call, and the Texas version of White-Eyed Vireos were present in such incredible numbers that everywhere you walked, you were surrounded by vireo songs.

If I were going to pull up roots and garden somewhere else, I’ve often thought that I’d want to move to the desert. Water in the desert is so precious that a single birdbath will be visited by an extraordinary numbers of visitors. (A little pan of water set out on a picnic table brought in Lesser Goldfinches, Inca Doves, Black-Crested Titmice, Cardinals, Wrens, Chickadees…it was crazy.)

Even a small wildlife garden in the desert is an oasis. Gardening in the desert, who knows what might turn up?

Instead, I live in an extraordinarily wet place, a place where birds and beasts can get water nearly anywhere, and most seasons they come for food instead of water. And I have no doubt that I’m making a difference. But I do occasionally envy those desert gardeners.

On the other hand, I’ve never had a Dobsonfly anywhere in the garden. And y’know, I think there’s something to be said for that.

© 2013, Ursula Vernon. All rights reserved. This article is the property of We have received many requests to reprint our work. Our policy is that you are free to use a short excerpt which must give proper credit to the author, and must include a link back to the original post on our site. Please use the contact form above if you have any questions.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Join the Wren Song Community

Wren Winter Singing crop

Free Exclusive Content and Member's Forum

Sign up for a free membership in the Wren Song Community and you'll have access to a lot more valuable information published exclusively for our members.

Meet other passionate wildlife gardeners from around the country. Share your successes. Learn from your failures. Discover the best resources to help you create welcoming habitat for wildlife in your gardens with native plants so that you will attract more birds, butterflies, native pollinators, and other wildlife to your garden.

Learn more about the Wren Song Community


  1. Teresa says

    Hi Ursula,
    Thanks for your fun article, and for braving Texas in August. You were in our neck of the woods – a different, beautiful place, but also a tricky one to “garden.” Being situated on the line between east (wet) and west (dry), drought cycles define our nature. Our expectations are colored by the moment and the vagaries of rainfall timing. We definitely learn not to take any sighting or success for granted; we also can’t take failures too much to heart. The environment is always subject to change and bring beautiful surprises with it.

    We hope you will return during Spring or Fall – your effort will be rewarded when experience the cooler weather, along with the diversity of wildlife during those times!!

    Thanks again for your wonderful column!

  2. Ginger Goolsby says

    Several years ago, I birdied the very area you visited….earlier in the summer though and it was still hot! I also agree that there are not words to sufficiently describe the bats emerging for the evening. Thanks for a great report and for the memories it stirred up. I live is East Tennessee and especially love your posts because I can identify with many of them.

  3. Lee says

    My partner says that your pink mystery flower might be a drought-stunted Evening Primrose. Those are native all over eastern and central Texas, and they come in all shades of pink, from nearly-white to dark and vivid.


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

CommentLuv badge